CHARACTERISTICS OF BREAKING WAVES USING THE HINDCASTING METHOD ON MAMBORO BEACH, PALU CITY

Abstract

Introduction: Mamboro Beach is one of the beaches in the northern part
of Palu City, Central Sulawesi Province, approximately 14 km from Palu
City. Wave activity, currents, tides, and winds are some of the triggers for
sedimentation. Mamboro Beach is prone to sediment movement which can
result in shoreline changes such as erosion which results in the retreat of
the shoreline (abrasion), or causes siltation which results in the
advancement of the shoreline (accretion). As a result of changes in the
shape of the coast, it will affect the hydrodynamic processes of the waters,
such as changes in the characteristics of ocean waves. This study aims to
determine the characteristics of the breaking waves, the height and depth
of the breaking waves that occur on the Mamboro beach, Palu City using
the Hindcasting method, the input required is bathymetry data, tides for 15
days, wind data for 10 years (past), fetch data. From the results of
Hindcasting calculations and analysis of wave transformation using wind
data for 10 years (past), it can be concluded that the characteristics of the
type of Breaking Wave that occurred on the Mamboro beach, Palu City, is
a surging type where the waves break right on the shore. The calculated
breaking wave height is 2.0911 meters and the breaking wave depth is
1.882 meters.